As you're led past painstakingly carved dark wooden divides and beautifully arranged mosaic finishes, you'll be instantly struck by the attention to detail. In a restaurant that, to all intents and purposes, aims to celebrate its ethnic authenticity, your suspicions will be piqued by the waiter's recommendations for your starters: Greek salad and chicken soup. As it transpires, the huge gathering of garden-fresh green leaves, sweet and juicy tomatoes, crumbly feta cheese and midnight black olives, is a superb choice. And the soup, while unspectacular, has generous nuggets of chicken in a creamy broth. But to really test Golestan's Persian credentials, plump for the traditional mirza ghasemi, delightful pureed aubergine and garlic, which has been lullabied into soft sweetness under a fluffy omelette blanket. For mains, the barbecued selection is robust and richly tasty, but a little dry. In contrast, the chicken wings are so dewy and tender that the flutter of an eyelash might leave the bones bare; both dishes are complemented by a vibrant green salad and crispy potato wedges. Finally, the Iranian ice cream and falooda are a ruckus of creamy lumps, icy shards and pistachio pebbles as rugged as the Caucasus. And with cubes of baklava and slabs of peanut crammed caramel among the offerings, a platter of traditional Iranian sweets is perfect for nibbling on between puffs of the cinnamon and coffee-tinged fruit cocktail shisha. Which all contributes to the fact that - just like the food, decor and wonderfully evocative Persian music at Golestan - your satisfaction will be completely genuine.
Garhoud(04 282 8007). Taxi Beside Computer College, Garhoud. Open Daily 12.15pm-12 midnight. All major credit cards accepted. Average price of a meal for two with soft drinks Dhs 100-200